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Leak down barrel:

  • There are 6 places that would cause your FS to leak down the barrel.
  •   1. The front 020 oring on the outside of your cylinder assembly 
  •   2. The 017 oring on the bolt.
  •   3. The 017 oring in the inside front of the cylinder assembly.
  •   4. 06-07 on the valve stem.
  •   5. Valve tip on the inside is scratched.
  •   6. 011 on the outside of the  valve housing.

To determine which oring is leaking here are some tricks. put your finger down the feed neck and cover the bolt tip. if your finger is pushed off, it is leaking from 2,4,5,6. If it doesn't push your finger off it is leaking from 1,3. If the leak is sputtering it is probably leaking from 3.     

Marker doesn't recock:

  • Check the orings at 1,2,3
  • LPR is set to low.
  • LPR isn't working properly.
  • Marker isn't aired up.
  • Solenoid could be blown.

Leak out of grip:

  • Check oring 1.
  • LPR is set to high
  • LPR is put together wrong.
  • The 010 in the back block is nicked, cut or missing.
  • Solenoid is loose.
  • The hose barbs are leaking.
  • The blue hose is leaking.
  • Missing 006 oring between the manifold and body.
  • 4-40 manifold screws are loose
  • Rear 020 oring on the cylinder assembly is nicked, cut or missing.
  • Solenoid could be blown. 


If air is leaking out of the grip and the marker is only half cycling this would be a LPR issue. The LPR is turned up to high or is put together wrong. If the marker cyles but still leaks check to see if the oring at position 1 is messed up, and make sure the solenoid is tight. Also make sure the gasket is correctly installed (The cut end should be facing toward the front of the marker.) You can remove half of the clam shell and retighten the two frame screws. This will allow you to air up the marker and still check for leaks on the inside. A bottle of soapy water will greatly help you find the leak. If you see bubbles it is leaking! You can push on the blue hose to find if it is leaking. Once you have removed the blue hose you need to replace it.(The hose material doesn't like to be reused.)


Leak out of the back of marker:

  • Check the back 020 oring on the cylinder assembly.
  • The 010 is nicked, cut or missing were the rear air transfer tube slides into the rear air transfer block. 
  • 019 is missing between cylinder assembly and the back block.
  • 010 is missing between the back block and rear air tranfser block.
  • Rear air transfer tube is loose. 

Eye screw stripped:

Send it to your local authorized ICD tech, or send it to ICD. 

Marker doesn't shoot:

  • Check your battery and all the wire connections.
  • Make sure the microswitch set screw isn't screwed into far.
  • Fried board.
  • Blown solenoid.
  • The PDS is working and you don't have the breech blocked.

Interchangeable screws and springs:

  • The asa  mounting screws are the same as a BKO tray screws.
  • The ball detent springs are the same as the LPR and HPR springs.
  • The ball detent spring in the Cat series are the same.
  • The brasscups in the regs are the same.
  • The blue hose can be replaced with cocker hose.  A FS isn't as important as the FSP for using the bigger hose.

Screws and Sizes:

  • ASA mounting screws: (2) 6/32 X 1/4" cap screws
  • Manifold screws: (2) 4-40 X 1/4" cap screws
  • Grip screws: (4) 6/32 X 1/4" button head
  • Ball detent screws: (2) 4-40 X 1/4" cap screws (Gen1-2 need two threads removed.)
  • Grip mounting screws: (1) 10-32 X 1/4" button head.(front), (1) 10-32 X 1/2" button head. (back)
  • Trigger pin: (1) 3/32 X 5/8" dowel pin
  • Trigger set screws: (3) 8/32 X 1/4", 8/32 X 3/8"
  • Rear air transfer screw: 8/32 X 1/4" cap screws
  • FSP on/off set screw: (1) 6/32 X 3/16" set screw
  • FSP grip mounting screws: (2) 10-32 X 3/8" button head
  • FSP rear air transfer block: (2) 6/32 X 1/4" cap screws
  • FSP ball detent screws: (2) 4-40 X 1/4" cap screws
  • FSP microswitch screws: (2) 1-72 X 3/8" cap screws
  • FSPV-7 mainifold screws: (2) 4-40 X 1/4" cap screws
  • Bottomline: (2) 10-32 X 1/2" cap screws
  • FSP LPR, HPR adjustment screw:  5/16-24x1/2 set screw

Orings and Sizes:

  • Cyl. Housing: Front inside (1) 017, 70 D, urethane, Outside (2) 020 buna
  • Piston (bolt): (1) 017, 70 D. urethane
  • Valve pin: FS(1) 006 urethane, FSP(1) 007 urethane
  • Valve tip: 011 buna
  • Cylinder to back block: (1) 019 buna
  • Rear air transfer block: (2) 010 buna
  • Rear air transfer tube: (1) 010 buna
  • FSP ASA: (1) 007 urethane
  • LPR: (1) 017 buna, (1) 016 buna, (1) 010 buna, (1) 015 urethane(plunger), reg seal
  • HPR: (1) 018 buna, (1) 010 buna, (1) 015 urethane(plunger), reg seal
  • Bottomline: (2) 010 buna

The bolt tip keeps coming loose:

  • To fix the Bolt tip you can put a small amount of blue loctite, teflon tape or a very small amount of silicone on the threads then just screw on your bolt tip.

lubing of a FS:

  • Use lube Gel or Super Lube.
  • The inside of the powertube tip(valve tip) should be lubed with the lube gel. If you have the thicker super lube it can be used also.
  • The cylinder assembly needs to be lubed with Lube Gel, or eighter kind of thick or thin Super Lube.
  • Please note: The outside of the power tube does not get any lube. If you lube this part please remove it. This is the number one cause of FSDO.
  • Only the plungers in the regs need to be lubed.
  • Put a couple of drops of the liguid lube supplied with the marker down the LPR to lube the solenoid. (shoot the marker to cycle the lube thru the solenoid.)
  • The marker should be lubed after every day of play.

Lubing the FSP-FSPV7: 

  • Use Lube Gel or Super Lube.
  • The inside of the powertube tip(valve tip) should be lubed with the lube gel. If you have the thicker Super Lube it can be used also.
  • The cylinder assembly needs to be lubed with the lube that is supplied with the marker or the oil style of super lube. The thicker lube gel and super lube will slow down the cycle speed.
  • Please note: The outside of the power tube does not get any lube. If you lube this part please remove it. This is the number one cause of FSDO.
  • Only the plungers in the regs need to be lubed.
  • Put a couple of drops of the liguid lube supplied with the marker down the LPR to lube the solenoid. (shoot the marker to cycle the lube thru the solenoid.)
  • The marker should be lubed after every day of play.

My opinions of the lubes out there:

  • Dow 33: This lube disapates fast and doesn't work really well.
  • Slick Honey: This lube works well, but it is harmfull to your orings. you will end up replacing your orings more often.
  • Lithium: This lube works well. But is not as good as Lube Gel or Super Lube.
  • Shocker lube: This is the same stuff as dow 33.
  • Super lube: (paste style) This works well on valve tips and FS  cylinder assemblies.(not FSP cylinder assemblies) 
  • Super lube: (liquid form) This works well on cylinder assemblies on both the FS and FSP models.
  • Blue Goo: I would recommend it. I use it in my B2K.
  • Liquid ICE: I would recommend it. I use it in my FSPV-7

Tuning your FS/FSP:

  • Set your Hp to 200psi.
  • Turn your lpr in till the bolt cocks back.
  • Set your hp to 300 psi
  • Turn in your lpr till the bolt cocks back.
  • Set your HP to 400 psi.
  • Turn in your LPR till the bolt clears the breech. then give it another 1/16th turn in. (You want a clean and crisp bolt action.)
  • Chrono your marker with the HP.
  • If the bolt is slow or does not clear the breech this means your lpr is to low. (Turn it in till it clears the breech.)
  • I do not recommend going from turn it in till it leaks, then back it out method. You increase your chances of damaging your soleniod this way.   

If you have any questions email me: greg_icd@yahoo.com

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